The Upper St. John: Its Early Settlement and Present Development

Year
1886
Month
8
Day
24
Article Title
The Upper St. John: Its Early Settlement and Present Development
Author
------
Page Number
3
Article Type
Language
Article Contents
THE UPPER ST. JOHN. Its Early Settlement and Present Development, A Country of Magnificent Scenery and Splendid Resources. The upper St. John is a country full of romance and legend. It would be difficult to ascertain at this late date much really reliable historical information about the early settlement of this beautiful section of the province of New Brunswick, but there are many traditions that might be related did they possess any but local interest. There are traditions also of the sufferings of the first French missionaries who commenced the labor of converting the Indians to Christianity which will, perhaps, develop into facts when the storehouses of historical information at Quebec are thoroughly explored. Madawaska and Victoria counties are excellent fields for both the historian and romancer, and the humorist, too, might seek for subjects in many a less fruitful field. To a visitor, who has dwelt his or her lifetime in a city, a visit to Madawaska cannot fail to be of interest. Before the introduction of English civilization the French settlers were a plain, simple folk, who knew nothing of the outside world, and cared less about it. For a century they had gone about their daily round of labors in the same manner and with the same tools and implements their forefathers had used. A yoke of oxen or a single ox was good enough for them. Wagons, except the great lumbering stage coaches which in later years they saw passing up and down the road between Grand Falls and River du Loup, they had none. But as time slipped by and the lumber on the lower St. John was gradually cleared away and speculators in search of other and better chances came among them they learned from them of a new and undiscovered country away at the month of the river, where there was a city like Quebec, having great saw mills and lofty ships, which carried the logs cut from their farms to La Belle France and to England, and even to the distant islands of the sea. True, their fathers had told them how a despised but conquering race had invaded the shores of Acadia, and after defeating their people in battle, had driven them from their homes into the wilderness; and how when in their flight they had settled on a fertile tract at St. Ann’s, now Fredericton, they were again driven farther up the Aroostook to Madawaska, where, finally they had been allowed to live in peace. But when the first of the lumbermen sought out the French these were but traditions. They had forgotten all about the lower St. Joho, because they traded with their own countrymen at River du Loup. They knew more about Quebec than any other city, because their priests came from that great city, and the brightest boys in the settlements went away there to study. With the advent of the lumbermen, fifty years ago, commenced a change in the habits of the people. They were given work in the woods during the winter months, and earned more money than they ever seen before. Then as the trade developed a steamer was put on the river between Grand Falls and St. Francis. This was the first steamer on the river that had a whistle, but what the effect on the simple Acadian French was, has not been chronicled; but later, when the steamer was taken to pieces and launched again in the lower basin at Grand Falls, and started on her first trip down to the sea, tooting and screeching, the good people around Oromocto thought the Angel Gabriel had come to summon them, and when they saw the steamer disappear around a bend in the river were the happiest mortals alive. In these days, Grand Falls was a military post and the county seat as well, which made it the most important place in the county. But although the falls possessed this honor it was not a great one. The mails for Quebec were regularly transported through the village. In summer, by men on horseback, and in winter by the same men on snow-shoes. Let the reader imagine if he can, the malls between the upper and lower provinces of Canada being conveyed through the wilderness over countless snowdrifts on snow-shoes. None but a hardy race of brave men could have stood the exposure of such a trip, even under the most favorable circumstances. But blow hard or blow light, the mailman went on, stopping only for the most terrific storms of winter. Much has been written about the exciting trips of the overland mall acmes the great prairies of the west. But of the trips of these hardy man from Woodstock to River du Loup nothing but a tradition is left. Later on the mails were transported by stage coach over rough roads until the completion of the Intercolonial railway rendered this tedious process no longer necessary. So manifold have been the changes in this delightful country in the past few years that it would be impossible to trace them in the short compass of a newspaper article. The first grants of land in what is now Madawaska County were made in 1795, at St. Basil and extended across the river St. John into the State of Maine. The principal family receiving a grant at this date was the Cyr family, ordinarily known as Crock. They were said to be of Scotch extraction, and wore long, curled whiskers, hence the name Crock, from the French word crochet. Other prominent French families in Madawaska were the Heberts, Martins, Theriaults and Thibodeaus. The descendants of these families are now settled along the river on both sides of the boundary line. From time to time the original settlers of St. Basil received additions by emigration from Quebec until the settlement became quite a large and important one. Although the Roman Catholic church has always sent missionaries to labor among these people and the bishops of Quebec visited them occasionally, it was not until about 40 years ago that the people were really consolidated together. About that time Rev. Father Langevin, a man of remarkable energy and great ability for origination was sent to labor among the people. He established himself at St. Basil and had spiritual charge of the whole country from St. Francis to Grand Falls a distance of 79 miles. The territory, of course, was not broad, but the only means of getting from one point to another was the river. In the summer the travelling was done in canoes and in the winter on snowshoes. Father Langevin’s work was fraught with the greatest difficulties, but he surmounted all these and before he left the handsome church at St. Basil was finished, as well as a convent and hospital. Another clergyman who did a great deal to improve the condition of the people was Rev. Father McQuirk, who succeeded Rev. Father Langevin. When Father Langevin came among the people they had no churches worthy of the name, notwithstanding that even then the country was quite populous. How greatly a church was needed is conclusively proven by the fact that when the church at St. Basil was opened over 1,800 communicants were enrolled. The methods of farming then employed by the French were far behind those of their English neighbors. Wooden ploughs and other utensils of a forgotten age were replaced by more modem implements and these in turn have been again replaced by modem agricultural machinery until now the French farmers are fully in line with their neighbors. Of course there are exceptions, but as a rule the French have kept pace with the times and are now possessed of every requisite for profitable farming. The introduction of the railway has also done a great deal to improve the condition of the people of the northern counties of the province—not only the French but the English, Scotch and Irish as well. It has furnished them with the means of travelling to Woodstock and of interchanging views with the enterprising farmers of Carleton county. But most important of all it has given them an outlet all the year round for their produce and cattle, and once the market was opened up, they showed themselves quick to avail themselves of the opportunity, and the trade which was thus opened up ten years ago has been steadily increasing in volume until now, the business on the upper St. John region is as valuable as any other the New Brunswick railway has. Besides the outward trade, the railway also does a large trade in taking supplies for the people and the lumber operators. Leaving Grand Falls by train on the New Brunswick Railway for Edmundston, the visitor rides through a most delightful country. About a mile from the station the river St. John is crossed on a fine deck trestle bridge. Three miles from Grand Falls the river forms the boundary between New Brunswick and Maine, and it is but fitting to remark here that the northern portion of Maine has shared with New Brunswick the advantages following the construction of the railway through the valley of the St. John, but in turn the railway has secured a large trade. At a distance of 14 miles from Grand Falls are located the villages of St. Leonards, on the Canadian side of the river, and Van Buren on the opposite shore. A large shingle mill, known as the Burpee mill, is located at Van Buren, and in addition to this there is a smaller mill and several starch factories at Van Buren. St. Leonards has also a starch factory and shingle mill. The mills in this locality furnish several carloads of freight daily for the railroad. The Roman Catholics have a large and handsome church at Van Buren, and have just completed a college of very respectable proportions. The next point of Interest at which the train stops is St. Basil, the oldest settlement in this district, and here the scenery of the upper St. John, which is always beautiful, is really enchanting. Within a short distance of St. Basil, Fr. Chiniquy, when a print of the Roman church, erected a large cross known as the seven mile cross. The significance of the cross was that it marked the site of the finest view of the valley of the St. John. Standing on the ground once occupied by this cross, the visitor can see over the level intervales the pretty village of Edmundston, seemingly not more than a mile away. It seems strange to one accustomed to the shorter range of the view by the seaside that objects seemingly but a short distance away are really far removed. It is beyond the power of pen to depict the varying beauty of the valley of the St. John. Look where you will some new object is seen. There is nothing like this view to be had anywhere in the province. At places the intervales are two miles wide and everywhere are well tilled. Both intervales and highlands are cleared, the farms often extending back until the range of vision is cut off by the hills. St. Basil has other attractions besides its fine scenery. The church, which is capable of seating 1,000 people, is built of wood, and a visit to it is sure to be of interest to a tourist, no matter of what religious creed he may be. Situated a few rods away is the residence of the parish priest, and at about an equal distance in the opposite direction is the convent, which is presided over by the sisters of charity, and the hospital, the nurses for which are furnished by the same order. A large number of children are provided for in the convent and given a good education. At the present time a great many workmen are employed erecting a college which will be opened next year and which will make St. Basil quite an educational center. Edmundston, which is now the most important trade center north of Grand Falls, is a thriving village. It is irregularly built on a number of low hills overlooking the St. John. Being the present northern terminus of the New Brunswick railway large quantities of produces are brought down the river from St. Francis, 36 miles distant, the home of Robert Connors, a large lumber operator on the upper St. John. Fort Kent, 20 miles from Edmundston at the mouth of the Fish River, is an important business center. Francisvllle, another village near Fort Kent, has a number of starch factories. Mills are located at different points along the river, all of which do considerable sawing, shingles and clapboards being the chief articles of export. Baker Brook, 12 miles from Edmundston, is the home of General Baker, the hero of the Aroostook war. The old general is now dead, but it is worthy of remark that one of his sons is now a member of the Canadian militia, notwithstanding that his father fought on the other side in 1837. The only relic of the Aroostook war at Edmundston is the basement of an old fort—the upper works were struck by lightning and destroyed some years since. If for no other purpose than the magnificent view, a visit to the fort will be found interesting. Edmunston is growing quite fast. A system of water works is now being put through the village and several homes are in course of erection. Messrs. Murchie, of Calais, had taken advantage of the water power at Little Falls and have erected a large mill on the river bank near the railway station. The mill contains a rotary saw, five shingle machines, a lath machine and a large planer. There are two hotels in the village and two churches—that owned by the Catholics being a large brick structure. The climate of Edmundston is delightful, the air being filled with the purest oxygen. But perhaps the most interesting feature of the village to a tourist will be found in the peculiarities of its people.